Several
years ago while visiting the United Kingdom, a cab driver quoted, in a
satirical manner, a familiar UK saying that states, "The sun never sets on
the British empire." I assumed that meant that the British thought very
highly of themselves and that it was a statement of grandeur because the light
would never dim on any of its territories. It meant that and more because of
its expansive empire that spans the globe. The sun was always shining on one of
its territories at all times throughout the day. Although the British
territories are not as expansive as they once were, Britain still has both
elegance and allure that has caused a certain amount of je ne sais
quoi that caused me to think about visiting London. I previously went to
Scotland and enjoyed Glasgow and Edinburgh. I imagined that this trip was going
to be vastly different from Scotland.
 |
This is an actual person who stays like this all day!
Who started this spectacle which has not become pastiche?
New Yorkers or the British? |
In
February 2015, I made my journey to London, a global city with which I
had become enamoured. I had previously never desired to visit London because I
always enjoyed going to more exotic places- countries with a culture vastly
different from my own; however, since I started having a more voracious
appetite for the theater, I decided that I would go to the West End to
comparatively analyze theater and visit central London to get both a taste and
a feel of the local culture and local color (I previously viewed productions
in the US by London's National Theater and by London's Young Vic).
Moreover, I had become increasingly enthralled with several BBC shows
like Downton Abbey, Mr. Selfridge, and Call the Midwife
(and others). As the last few years past, I realized that I had become an
anglophile. While watching Shakespearean plays annually and becoming ensconced
with British phrases and accents, I realized that I both admired and respected
both British theater and television. Logically I decided that the best place to
visit on my vacation would be London. My goal was to see as much theater
that I could afford to see and to go to as many art exhibits humanly possible. Because I am an avid walker, I decided to walk everywhere in lieu of the tube
or the bus. I walked about twelve hours daily so that I could enjoy the
local flavor. I visited the National Theater multiple times as well as a couple
of theaters in the West End and five museums, each with its own focus. As a
result, I gained a greater appreciation and cultural awareness for both the
British culture and for my own. As anywhere, one can reside at hotels of great
grandeur or hotels of more modesty. I stayed in Fitzrovia at St. Giles, a three
star hotel with a full breakfast, in the heart of the West End. European
hotel accommodations tend to be small. I expected a small room because I booked
a single room. The concierge and other workers were exceptionally genial toward
me. Although the room was small, it did not matter. I only intended to sleep
there, thus the only thing that mattered was its cleanliness. If one is looking
forward to attending the theater in the West End, I highly recommend St. Giles. The Marriott Hotel, although pricier, is located on the South Bank in proximity
to the National Theater and it has all the glitz and glamor that goes with a
four star hotel. The Ritz Carlton, is located in Piccadilly, a half hour walk to
the theater district. One can get a superb afternoon tea there, but the cost is
much greater than at other locations.
 |
Harrods, the most opulent department store in which I had
ever shopped. I managed to buy a pistachio pastry and some
perfume, Spring Flowers by Creed |
From
the moment I arrived at the hotel, I was captivated by the frenetic pace
of the city, by the avuncular people who often helped me when I looked lost,
and by the people moving about while enjoying good sunny weather- three words
that do not normally go together in London. I absolutely adored London. I
cannot say it enough. I am not sure whether I adored it because the culture was
acutely aligned with my own American culture or because of the quality of the
theater and other performing arts. I spent time walking all over central
London. As a peripatetic person, walking pleasantly suited me and I did not
tire easily. I loved the architecture and the general beauty of the city. I visited both Selfridges and Harrods. I could have spent days basking in the
opulence of each store while enjoying afternoon teas and tempting pastries that
truly were works of art. The price tag attached was commensurate with their
worth. Selfridges now boasts that it is the only department store with a
cinema. The main film that seemed to be ubiquitous throughout central London was
Fifty Shades of Grey. I decided, however, to pass on that film. The main
thought that I came away with regarding British culture as I walked and perused
stores was the extent that British culture influences American culture. It
became apparent that the American culture is a pastiche of British
culture. The nomenclature of both countries is the same (street names,
districts, etc.). The one thing that we have not esteemed to the same level as
the British is enjoying a cup of tea. We are more fascinated with coffee than
with tea. The British are still arguing over how to best enjoy a cup of tea.
Does one put the milk in first or last? How hot should the water be? Tea bag
versus loose tea? How long is it steeped? After enjoying English Breakfast
during the morning and in the afternoon daily, I thought I might have caffeine
withdrawal upon disembarkation at Kennedy. Would you like a pot of English
Breakfast?
 |
The National Theater
Have you ever seen any of their filmed productions?
They are spectacular, especially if you cannot get to London
or cannot see their productions on Broadway or elsewhere. |
Before
going on holiday (British vernacular of course), I researched the plays that I
was interested in seeing. I narrowed the list down to six and I made my
final decision upon arrival the first day. Visiting London without
attending theater is like touring New York City without ever seeing Broadway,
Times Square or the 9/11 Memorial. Why would anyone travel so far without ever
taking in the Theater? While in London, I visited the New Globe Theater
and the National Theater. I took tours of both theaters including a back stage
tour of the National Theater. The New Globe was financed by Sam Wanamaker. It
is open during the spring and the summer. Bring blankets to keep warm, as it is
an outdoor theater. Contrary to the outdoor New Globe Theater is the
indoor National Theater that has three theaters with many plays running
concurrently. The National Theater boasts about having a drum revolve that
is five stories high and contains several elevators used to hoist huge objects
onto the stage. It is one of two in the world. I loved the National Theater
with its cafes, its restaurants, its bookstore and its general ambiance.
One could stay there all day and read and relax or enjoy a great dinner before
a show. Even though I attended the theater alone, I met people during the
interval (vernacular for intermission). I engaged in conversations about
the British and about New Yorkers. If ever one is undecided about
attending the theater alone, it can be a great experience.
 |
The New Globe Theater is built to be a replica of the
original Globe Theater. I took a tour and learned interesting
facts about the productions at the original Globe Theater. |
While
in London, I saw five plays. I saw Man and Superman, by George Bernard
Shaw. This play expands on Nietzsche's concept of superman in which man
explores his own morality and shakes off the conventions that have been placed
on him. The main character is played by Ralph Fiennes who tries to live by his
own set of rules and opines on women and marriage. This four hour
performance was exceptional. I also saw, A View from the Bridge,
in the West End. It was directed by Ivo Van Hove and written by Arthur Miller. It was fresh on the heels of their Young Vic production. It is my belief that
this play will arrive on Broadway within the next year. We love Arthur
Miller and we love Brooklyn. The play was spectacular (I will review it in a separate
post). If it arrives here, I strongly recommend it. Additionally, at the
National Theater is Behind the Beautiful Forevers, a play adapted from
the non fiction narrative by Katherine Boo. This play is about a group of
people who live behind the airport in Mumbai. This group lives in the shadow of
great development in Mumbai while millions continue to live in indigence. This
play is emotionally moving, and it prompted me to read the original
narrative. Also, at the National Theater is Tom Stoppard's new play,
The Hard Problem. The play explores consciousness. It asks the hard
questions about the things of which we are aware and that can be proved.
Although Stoppard is known to be logorrheic, the issues discussed were
fascinating and the verbosity of the play did not detract from its themes. The
set was minimalistic and the acting was superb. The lead actor, Olivia Vinall,
reminded me of Carey Mulligan in Skylight. She was passionate in her
beliefs as she opined on her belief of the consciousness of God. Do
coincidences exist or are we merely unaware of the circumstances that create
them? Does God exist or are we orchestrating our own paths? Lastly, I saw War
Horse, which was great in spite of technical difficulties that caused the
show to stop for about ten minutes to correct the problem.
One
of the last events in which I engaged was visiting The National PortraitGallery; it gives visitors a great history of the kings and queens of England. Viewing the exhibit has inspired me to gain a more complete picture of the
history of the British monarchy. Much has been written about the British
monarchy, but the exhibit gives a complete and accurate history without
embellishment. Currently on Broadway are two productions about the
British monarchy, Wolf Hall (Parts I and II produced by the Royal Shakespeare
Company starts March 20th) and The Audience. All anglophiles are
rushing to get tickets now!
As a
result of my vacation, I have gained more wisdom from traveling and I have a
better consciousness of London and its environs. I am now positioned to
return and branch out to other areas of England and also to visit Wales and
Northern Ireland. When I return in subsequent years, I will continue to visit
the theater and art museums. I will also visit Stratford so that I can see the
Royal Shakespeare Company and the place of Shakespeare's birth. I learned that
if I am having difficulty understanding someone, it is also likely that he or
she is having difficulty understanding me. Walking and not taking bus
tours is really the best way to get around (if you can walk without
fatigue). When converting currency, always use "the hole in the
wall" (vernacular for ATMs). The best rate is given through the machine. Bring a small amount of local currency before arriving. Always include respite
in your day by having an afternoon tea at one of the better locations. Get to
know some of the locals. That is how one learns the true culture of a place. Take time to enjoy the night -life. London is a beautiful city at night. I cannot wait to return. In the meantime, Wolf Hall awaits me. I
have tickets the first full week in April. A review will follow. Cheerio!
.jpg)
Deirdre
M. DeLoatch
Guest Contributor
